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A gnocchi roller’s furrows give the dumplings grooves that hold sauce nicely.

A gnocchi roller’s furrows give the dumplings grooves that hold sauce nicely.

Semolina (hard wheat flour) gnocchi were the first official Roman gnocchi dish, dating back to 1st century AD.

Ancient Romans knew gnocchi as comfort food: an inexpensive, easy-to-make, satisfying and sustaining dumpling. That certainly has not changed. Gnocchi alla romana are our modern counterpart: round, flat discs of cooked and cooled semolina.

Italian cooks went on to develop elegant banquet and special occasion gnocchi around the Renaissance (15th and 16th century). The refinement and creativity of Italian food continues unabated. It’s no wonder Italian cuisine is so immensely popular. Italians have had centuries to perfect it.

Mostly we think of gnocchi as the brainchild of northern Italy. However, as with most Italian dishes, numerous regions of Italy claim their origin. The word gnocchi probably arose from “nocca” or knuckles or possibly from the Lombard word “knohha” or knot, which gnocchi resemble. Although Italian cooks all over Italy have devised scores of ways to prepare gnocchi, the most well-known are potato (with flour or breadcrumbs), cooked polenta, ricotta (with flour or dry breadcrumbs) and squash (with ricotta or flour and/or breadcrumbs). Italians, depending on where they live, also prepare these “dumplings” with potato, cornmeal, chestnut, buckwheat or chickpea flours.

The beloved potato gnocchi date back to the 16th or 17th century, after Spanish explorers introduced South American potatoes to Italian kitchens. Fifteenth century Lombardians ate gnocchi made of bread, milk and ground almonds called “zanzarelli.” Later recipes show a kind of precursor gnocchi called “malfatti” (or badly made) prepared from a flour, breadcrumb and water dough grated on a cheese grater. Later cooks added egg.

Nineteenth century chef Pellegrino Artusi, first published the modern recipe for potato gnocchi.

He shaped his gnocchi into long ropes, cut into pinky-sized logs then rolled them against the back of a cheese grater or fork for texture. The texture (also done with a small furrowed wooden paddle) gives the dumplings grooves that hold the sauce nicely.

As with all dishes with few ingredients, the quality of those ingredients and technique is all-important. Gnocchi require all-purpose or boiling potatoes. They fall in between new potatoes and baking potatoes. Yukon Gold and Yellow Finn give a denser gnocchi; starchier Idaho and russet impart a lighter texture.

It’s important not to overcook potatoes. Use a cake tester to probe for doneness. Though traditional Italian cook will boil whole potatoes, newer cooks favor baking or microwaving whole potatoes for a drier cooked potato. Dry-cooked potatoes require less flour and are therefore less heavy. Additionally, baked potatoes give gnocchi a hint of roasted potato.

Peel potatoes immediately while they are still hot. The hot cooked potato should be riced through a food mill. Do not purée in food processor or you’ll end up with gummy gnocchi.

Potatoes should be very warm when adding flour; it reduces the amount of flour needed. Eggs add structure and moisture, but are not strictly necessary. Egg yolks are favored. Add as much flour as necessary for a moist dough that holds together when rolled into a snake. Don’t overwork dough.

When mixing dough and flour, regularly scrape up dough stuck to the board and incorporate. Dust hands and work surface lightly to keep the dough from sticking.

Chef Pelligrino Artusi noted that the early gnocchi family tree reveals its recipes to be the forerunners of pasta. Italians eat gnocchi as a first course (primo piatto) alternative to soup or pasta.

Every region in Italy, but principally in the north, has its own gnocchi variation, specific sauce and serving style.

Humble, beloved gnocchi have chiefly remained homemade, keeping Italy’s tradition safe in the hands of the cooks who started it all.

Many Italians boil potatoes and add eggs to gnocchi. The additional moisture requires more flour and results in heavier gnocchi. This recipe uses starchy potatoes like russets and bakes them, which rids them of excess moisture and gives a lighter, roasted flavor. The eggs are optional and depend on personal taste. Pair gnocchi with sage butter, pesto, salsa verde, herbed tomato sauce or gratinée with Fontina cheese.

Yields 2 lb. dough, about 100 gnocchi, 6 to 8 servings

2 lb. baking/russet potatoes, scrubbed and dried

1-1/2 C. all purpose flour

12 to 15 fresh large sage leaves, sliced crossways

Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Rub potatoes with oil and place in oven on baking dish. Bake potatoes until a metal skewer pierces them easily, about 1 hour. Peel hot potatoes (hold on a fork or skewer) then dice. Place potatoes into a food mill and rice while still warm into large mixing bowl. Sprinkle salt over potatoes. While warm, but not hot, knead in optional yolks. Sift 1-1/4 cups flour over potatoes. Dust work surface and hands with remaining flour. Knead dough until smooth. Form dough into a thick log. Use immediately.

Cut dough into four even pieces about 1/2 pound each. Keep three pieces covered. Roll one out into an even 25-inch log 1/2- to 3/4-inch wide.

Cut log into 1-inch lengths. Holding a wooden gnocchi paddle or fork in one hand, press each gnocchi against the ridged surface.

Roll it off with a thumb or index finger to make an indentation in each dumpling.

Place gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet and cover with a clean, dry towel. Don’t let them touch or sit very long. Repeat with remaining dough. (Freeze dumplings not using immediately. No need to thaw. Toss directly into boiling water.)

Bring 4 quarts water with 1 T. salt to a rolling boil in a 6-quart pot. In a 12-inch high-sided skillet, heat butter and sage leaves together over medium-low heat until butter begins to bubble and sage leaves wilt, 3 minutes.

Remove from heat and set aside.

Lower heat under water to a low boil and add 1/3 of the gnocchi. Cook until they float. Pull them off as soon as they surface with a slotted spoon, drain well, and drop into warm sage butter. Re-peat with remaining gnocchi.

To Serve: Immediately transfer gnocchi to serving dish or plates, and sprinkle with freshly shredded or grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and freshly ground pepper.

Knead together 1 lb. ricotta cheese, 4 oz./1 C. shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino cheese, salt and pepper, and about 1 C. flour (or about 1/2 C. dry breadcrumbs and flour) until a light dough forms. Divide dough into four pieces. Dust with flour. If gnocchi are soft, refrigerate 20 minutes. Roll each piece into 1/2-inch-wide snake. Cut each “snake” into 1-inch lengths and proceed as for potato gnocchi. Pair with a tomato or mushroom sauce or herb butter sauce.

Nancy Krcek Allen has been a chef-educator for more than 25 years and has taught professional and recreational classes in California, New York City and Michigan. Her culinary textbook is called “Discovering Global Cuisines.”

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